Belitung is Indonesia’s best-kept secret: crystalline shallows scattered with monumental granite boulders, and the private sanctuary of Leebong Island at its heart.

The boulders are the strangest thing about it—house-sized, rounded, piled at the water’s edge as though set down deliberately. Between them the sea runs shallow and impossibly clear, and mangrove channels open onto sandbars that appear and vanish with the tide.

Here eco-conscious refinement meets an ancient maritime culture, the days set to your rhythm and dining composed around your preferences. It is an island discovery far from any crowd, on a coast even Indonesians rarely reach.